A Guide To Backpacking The Thai Islands: Part 2

In part one of my guide to backpacking the Thai islands I shared my 3 top tips and covered the East coast islands – click here to go to part 1. Now, in part 2, I shall cover the West coast islands and beaches.

West Coast Islands & Beaches

Railey and Tonsai (Krabi)

Railey in high season is quite simply a nightmare for budget travellers. Once upon a time there used to be many budget accommodation options on the east side of Railey, however the high end hotels on the west seem to have taken over, meaning there are now only a couple of real budget options left on East Railey.

Budget accommodation on East Railey:

Cabana Garden Bungalows

Tel: 075621733 or 0840577167

This was our only option when we arrived on East Railey with no accommodation booked in January 2013. A bungalow with a fan and attached bathroom with only cold water, no plug sockets, and no wi-fi, cost us 600b a night, quite simply a rip off. Giant bugs complimentary of course.

To find Cabana when you arrive from the East side, then walk to your right until your reach Diamond Cave resort, then walk up past Diamond Cave (toward the west side). Follow the signs for Ya-Ya bar and Highland rock climbing. Once you reach Highland rock climbing, keep walking round and you will reach Cabana Garden Bungalows.

Tonsai

Tonsai bay is located next to Railey Beach and for the adventurous it is possible to walk here over the headland, although due to the steep and rocky nature of the path I would be very reluctant to do this with a backpack on.

Tonsai has many more budget bungalows available than its next door neighbour, Railey, although the beach here is no comparison. The beach is very thin and shaded making it impossible to sunbathe, however if you plan on spending your days rock climbing then Tonsai would be a great budget alternative to Railey.

Koh Phi – Phi

Koh Phi-Phi is a beautiful little island which in my opinion has now become overrun with mid-range travellers, therefore making it extremely difficult for budget travellers to find accommodation in the high season.

If you are a budget traveller then I’d recommend trying to time your visit to coincide with shoulder or low season so that you have a greater range of accommodation options. If you must visit in high season then it is essential that you book your accommodation well in advance or you may be left either sleeping on the beach, or at best, sleeping in a cockroach invested bungalow.

The beaches on Koh Phi Phi are extremely pretty, and the sea is still relativity clean and clear despite all the development on the island. A must do whilst on Phi Phi is a climb to the viewpoint to snap a photo of the two crescent sandy bays.

The night life on Phi Phi is possibly the best of the islands on the West coast. There are many bars dotted along the beach front with most putting on its own fire dance show and offering drinks promotions. I also recommend visiting Reggae Bar, which shows Muay Thai boxing for free, all you need to do is purchase a drink (tourists can also try their skills in the boxing ring too if they wish!)

Koh Lanta

Before visiting Koh Lanta I had heard that it was a rather quiet island which was more suited to families than young backpackers, however, now I have visited I want to dispel that myth.

We stayed in the port town of Ban Saladan which is a surprising town full of many cafes and restaurants. There are also a couple of budget guesthouses overlooking the sea, although the beach here is definitely nothing to write home about.

I’d recommend staying in Ban Saladan if you are looking for budget accommodation and want a good range of restaurants and supermarkets to choose from. You can rent a scooter from 150b per day to explore the island.

Budget guesthouse recommendations in Ban Saladan:

The Swedish Restaurant (double room, shared bathroom 500b)

Lanta House (double room, shared bathroom 400b)

Backpacker friendly beaches on Koh Lanta:

Ao Phra Ae (Long Beach)

Lovely long sandy beach touted as the most backpacker friendly beach on the island, unfortunately it is not easy to just turn up and find accommodation without a booking as all the guesthouses / bungalows are spaced out – book ahead or hire a tuk tuk driver!

Klong Nin

We had heard little about Klong Nin before we visited, but we rate it highly – it has a wide selection of budget accommodation and a great choice of beach bars and restaurants. Plus – we loved the beach!

Koh Lipe (pronounced Koh Lee Pay)

Last but definitely not least…

This island is a tropical paradise!

Koh Lipe may be a little further and therefore harder to reach than the other islands, but your extra effort is well rewarded. The sand is EXTREMELY fine like a white powder, and the sea is amazingly clear – there is even a reef only a couple of meters off shore which is great for snorkelling.

Rent snorkels and fins for only 100b a day – from the dive / snorkel shop just next to serene guesthouse.

If you’re looking for budget accommodation you will find many bungalows if you ask at the restaurants along the beach, or on walking street. In high season a basic bungalow starts at 500b – if you are staying for 3 nights or more then try and negotiate a discount as places rarely fill up even in high season.

Budget guesthouse recommendations:

Name: NT house (Bamboo bungalows)
Cost: Doubles from 600b
Location: On walking street, half way between Pattaya beach and Sunrise beach

Name: Serene Guesthouse (Concrete blocks)
Cost: Doubles from 600b
Location: On walking street, half way between Pattaya beach and Sunrise beach

In the evening many people come to the beach to watch the sunset, gaze at the stars and have a couple of drinks on the soft sand. There are also many restaurants and bars along the beach that put on the occasional fire dance show.