Mumbai, India

Journey to Mumbai

We travelled to Mumbai from Kolkata and although at first we were contemplating taking the train (a journey that takes over 24 hours); we decided to fly as the thought of being on a train for that long just scared us. Also, there wasn’t much difference between the price of a 2 a/c train ticket and a flight (a difference of around £20 each).

Getting from Mumbai airport to Colaba

We stepped off the plane and picked up our luggage which was a petty straight forward affair, then headed straight to the prepaid taxi booth (located just on the left hand side before the exit). We collected our ticket for a taxi which cost rs.400 including bags, and waited outside for a cab to agree to take us to Colaba.

Our taxi driver couldn’t speak English, he knew where Colaba was, but didn’t know the name of our hotel so he had to stop a couple of times to ask taxi drivers for directions. It also took longer than normal to drive from the airport as we were arriving during the final Durja Puja celebrations and there were people on trucks dancing, people setting fireworks off on the side of the street, plus the general chaos that you come across in India.

Accommodation

India Guesthouse

Location: At the seaside end of Arthur Bunder Road

How much does it cost? Rs.500 – 600

We called ahead in order to reserve a basic double room and was told the price was rs.500 – 600 for a room. When we arrived, tired, and after walking up 3 flights of stairs we were greeted by the ‘delightful’ owner who exclaimed ‘you said you’d be arriving at 9pm. It’s now 10pm, your late’. This made me take an instant disliking to the place.

We were then informed he had reserved us the most expensive room – rs.600 per night even though we’d requested basic. He showed us to our room and it was just like a massive dorm room as the rooms do not have walls to the ceilings, they are just thin wooden separations.

We decided to stay for one night to see what it was like and because it was 10pm we didn’t want to wander around. The room was extremely hot and noisy during the night and we couldn’t wait to get out in the morning.

We went searching for another hotel room at 8am and when we were walking out the owner exclaimed ‘are you checking out now? Remember check out time is noon’ – he couldn’t wait for us to leave.

Prosser’s Hotel

Location: Henry Road (off Strand Road)

How much does it cost? Rs. 600

We checked into Prosser’s Hotel as we were dissatisfied with India Guesthouse just 5 minutes’ walk away. The hotel has rooms ranging from rs.600 – 800 per night – we had a room on the ground floor with shared bathroom for rs.600. The room was tiled from top to bottom, which although wasn’t very pleasing on the eye, it seemed to help keep the room cool. The room was also very quiet and we had a good couple of nights sleep.

Sights

Gateway of India

Location: At the end of Strand Road

How much does it cost? Free

The Gateway of India, as its name suggests, is a large stone gateway facing Mumbai Harbour. It was built to commemorate the visit of King George V in 1911, however it wasn’t completed until some years later. It’s a pretty impressive looking structure and tends to be surrounded by crowds of people, some whom are catching boats from just behind it, and some whom are taking pictures just in front of it.

Since the Mumbai attacks in 2006 & 2008 many city landmarks now have a noticeable amount of security, and the Gateway of India is now fenced off so you have to pass through security in order to get close to it. I’m not sure how ‘secure’ this security actually is as the electronic scanners are not plugged in, and the guards do not seem to be searching anyone.

Victoria Terminus Train Station

Location: On the junction of Nagar Chowk

How much does it cost? Free

One of Mumbai’s defining features is its architecture, and the Victoria Terminus is a fine example. It’s most impressive from outside and the best photo is taken from across the road. This train station is a Unesco World Heritage site.

University of Mumbai

Location: Bhaurao Patil Marg

How much does it cost? Free

Although you can’t actually go inside the grounds of the University anymore without being a student, you can still admire this grand building from the gates.

High Court

Location: Eldon Road

How much does it cost? Free

Another fine example of the great Victorian / Indian fusion architecture in Mumbai, take a stroll past the High Court.

Although our Lonely Planet book stated we could ‘walk right in’ to the court to observe public cases being heard, none of the guards would let us in - we walked round the perimeter of the court asking the guard on each gate but were informed we were not permitted to enter.

Girguam Chowpatty (Beach)

Location: End of Marine Drive

How much does it cost? Free

We took a bus from the bus depot on Colaba Causeway to Girguam Chowpatty – we paid rs.30, although we are sure we were over charged as we saw a family only pay the conductor rs.10 and they were still on the bus when we got off.

When we visited the beach the area close to the road seemed reasonably clean, however, the water seemed to be washing up tons of rubbish leaving the water’s edge unbelievably dirty and strewn with rubbish.

At the end of the beach close to Marine drive are a couple of stalls selling Bhel Puri (fried rice with fish) and other fast food items. There are also some mid-range restaurants lining the road opposite the beach.

We sat in one of the mid-range restaurants and must have left our camera there, as when we were sat at one of the food stalls on the beach we noticed our camera was missing. Our hearts both dropped and we ran back and retraced our steps back to the restaurant. Luckily, as soon as we walked in the restaurant the staff recognised us and handed back our camera, we were so relieved to have the camera back as I think we both thought we wouldn’t see it again.

Elephanta Island

Location: Elephanta Island (in the middle of Mumbai Harbour – 1 ¼ hour ferry journey)

How much does it cost?
Tourist Tax to enter the island: Rs.5
Entry to caves: Rs. 250
Miniature train to end of pier: Rs.10 (optional)
Ferry from Gateway of India: Rs.130

We took the ferry from the jetty in front of the Gateway of India and bought our ferry tickets from a gentleman just before we stepped on the ferry for rs.130 each. We bought the deluxe boat ticket which was meant to include an English speaking guide for the caves, but when we arrived at the caves the guide never looked at our ferry ticket and everyone seemed to have a guide no matter their ticket type. In addition, on the ferry we were told that it was an extra rs.10 to sit on the top deck – this left us wondering what the difference was between a standard and a deluxe boat ticket if everyone gets a guide and has to pay extra to sit on the top deck! We actually pushed past the guy insisting on an extra rs.10 for the top deck on our journey back, as there were no seats on the bottom deck and we were not going to sit on floor – or pay anything extra. You can bet your life the Indian tourists on the ferry didn’t pay Rs.130 for a deluxe boat ticket but still got the guide in the caves and a seat on the ferry!

When you arrive on the island you have the option of taking the miniature train to the end of the jetty which costs rs.10 each, or just walking (free – obviously). At the end of the pier you will need to pay rs.5 which is a tourist tax. You will then start to climb the steps up to the caves past all the souvenir stalls.

Just as we were buying our tickets for the caves we noticed a monkey drinking a bottle of fanta in the tree above us!

There are a series of about 6 caves you can explore, although the first cave is the most impressive and well preserved. The other caves do have carvings but these are almost all crumbled away.